Complete Guide to Use Soil Moisture Sensor W/ Examples

You can read this and other amazing tutorials on ElectroPeak's official website In this tutorial, you will learn how to use a soil moisture sensor. Practical examples are also provided to help you master the code. What You Will Learn: • How to use soil moisture sensor with Arduino How Does It Work? The soil moisture sensor consists of two probes that measure the volume of water in the soil. The two probes allow the electric current to pass through the soil and, according to its resistance, measures the moisture level of the soil. When there is more water, the soil conducts more electricity, which means that the resistance will be less. So the moisture level will be higher. Dry soil reduces conductivity. So, when there is less water, the soil conducts less electricity, which means it has more resistance. So the moisture level will be lower. There are different types of soil moisture sensor on the market, but their working principal are all similar; so if your sensor is different from the one you see in this tutorial, do not worry! All of these sensors have at least three pins: VCC, GND, and AO. The AO pin changes according to the amount of moisture in the soil and increases as there is more water in the soil. Some models have an additional base called DO. If the moisture amount is less than the permissible amount (which can be changed by the potentiometer on the sensor) the DO pin will be "1", otherwise will remain"0″. In this tutorial, we have used the Waveshare Soil Moisture Sensor. It has a detection length of 38mm and a working voltage of 2V-5V. It has a Fork-like design, which makes it easy to insert into the soil. The analog output voltage boosts along with the soil moisture level increases. Using this sensor is quite easy. You connect the AO pin to any analog pin. If your sensor has a DO pin, you can connect it to any digital pin. For each soil moisture measurement, we took an average of 100 sensor data to make the data more stable and accurate. Please note that after 10-20 months, the sensor may get oxidized in the soil and lose its accuracy. Therefore you should replace it every year. Since it has a low price and easy setup, it worths the annual replacement.

Complete Guide to Use Soil Moisture Sensor W/ Examples 1

• Other Related Knowledge ofsoil moisture

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If you could invent a new yard tool or technology, what would it be and how would it be named?

Think of a sprinkler system that could detect soil moisture, soil composition, remote sensing for height of grass and pest control. A SMART LAWN (BUSINESS NAME) to draw from tanks located on said property. Timed, automated, and it you will prescribed for each yard, business, or golf course with lidar precision tech to deploy autonomous lawn equipment. Design, execute, and managed from central hub for each network, and approved by a panel of experts IE Landscape architect, Civil engineer, Licensed Surveyor, and a object orientated programer. Just the ramblings of myn drawn from past experience. About me, former Civil, Survey tech, Designer, and Master gardener. If you could invent a new yard tool or technology, what would it be and how would it be named?

Complete Guide to Use Soil Moisture Sensor W/ Examples 2

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What is on the bottom of my tomatoes, still on the vine, looks like they're spoiled?

It could be rotting from the tomatoes touching the ground, but if they are not touching the ground.It may be "Blossom-End Rot" a calcium deficiency due to soil moisture problems that prevent calcium from making its way to the fruits. It can occur even when there is abundant calcium in the soil. Poor drainage, root damage and soil pH that is too high or too far below the optimum 6.5 , inconsistent watering or too much nitrogen, magnesium, potassium, sodium, ammonium salts, or a deficiency of soluble calcium salts, cause a decrease in calcium & can be contributing factors. Does this describe your tomatoes? "The first visible symptoms of the disorder is a small darkened or water-soaked area around the blossom end of the fruit, appearing about time the fruit begins to ripen. The spot darkens, enlarges, and becomes sunken as the fruits mature. Large lesions may show concentric rings. The affected tissue is leathery and firm unless invaded by secondary decay organisms." * Remove affected fruits to improve the development of other healthy fruit on the plant. You can correct the problem by improving drainage, watering plants consistently as needed, & mulching plants to conserve moisture & to provide a more uniform water supply. To provide calcium, eggshells can be crushed and added to the soil. Foliar sprays of calcium wo not correct blossom-end rot once it has occurred on the fruit, but it can help prevent the condition from occurring on developing fruit. Soil-applied treatments and prevention by cultural practices are generally preferred over sprays. Chelated calcium solutions also provide an excellent source of calcium. Gypsum & compost improves drainage. Water early in the day, & give plants room so they do not stay wet. Fluctuations in soil moisture during periods of rapid plant growth create moisture stress and limits calcium distribution to the fruit. Make sure the plants are getting at least and inch of water per week. If fertilizer is needed, reduce nitrogen levels by using 5-10-10 fertilizer in place of 10-10-10. Windy conditions in the spring coupled with low relative humidity can cause high transpiration rates that can induce blossom-end rot, as does planting too early while the soil is still cold or undergoing severe hardening off. Fortunately, by the time a second set of fruit begins developing, your plants will have expanded and developed a root system capable of gathering and delivering calcium to the tomatoes. Good luck. Hope this helps.

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