We Have a Well. After 7 Years of No Problems, Our Hot Water Has an Oder to It. Almost Like Sulfer. W

There is an "anode rod" that runs down the center of your water heater. There should be a hex plug on the top or your water heater-unscrew this plug after you shut off power to water heater and open hot/cold faucet to let off pressure. Remove this rod as after awhile it acculates minerals and starts giving off this odor. That is why only the hot water is affected. Some people say to also bleach the well by mixing 1 cup pure non scented bleach in 1 gallon of water and dumping this down the well casing. I did not do the bleaching as removing this rod stopped the problem. If you decide to bleach your well, after you pour this bleach solution in the well- let is sit for 1 hour without using water- then open each faucet for 1 minute to allow this bleach solution to enter each water line to each fixture. Run faucets for 1 minute and then shut off-this lets bleach solution have time to rest in all supply lines to neutralize any contaminants. Let sit for 2-3 hrs. Then flush out by letting water run for 5 minutes at each faucet-do not forget washer - ice maker - dishwasher. This will solve your problem.

1. Water smells like rotten eggs; yet was tested and has no sulfur?

Manganese. ( No, not Magnesium ) Softener wont help. I had a similar problem, in our case if we used a carbon filter (like a GE fxwtc), it would improve the water for only a few days, replaced water heater, replaced well tank, it did not help. Then installed a T-1500 Terminator Plus water treatment system. (I can not read that without hearing it with my tackiest infomercial voice tone inflection), and now my whole family loves our clean clear water!

2. Water Heater Won't stay lit?

Thermocouples are not to be "centered" in the flame. This will diminish the capacity of the unit to produch millivolts and will also lessen the life of the unit. The flame needs to impinge (touch the tip of the unit (look at the drawing onthe back of the card the thermocouple came in. It will show you the correct positioning. If your pilot is dropping out when you turn the valve from the pilot position to on it sounds like ther is a pressure problem somewhere. When the main burner calls for gas there is not enough flow to supply the burner and pilot. This will cause the pilot to drop out. Hoe are all the other gas appliances in the house. Do you see this problem at other appliances? If you have a gas range turn all the top burners on. Turn on the oven. Do the burners lower much. If so the proplem is in the supply to the house or in the houseline. If not (wich is usually the problem) it it is a local problem at the H2O heater. There might be restriction inthe appliance line. Is it copper? If it is there might be copper sulfate built up inthe line that will need to be removed. Is the line kinked? That too may be the problem. In any event check with your utility company first. Many have a lowcost or free dianostic service. Although Korky may be right My issue is with the pilot going out on its own with no action. As far as replacing the valve. Ther may be restriction inthat valve as opposed to the supply line and/or other areas including the valve itself. In my 35 years inthe appliance repair industry I have seen many customers run out and buy a valve only to have them give the old one to me and after a slight tap on the body the corosion freeing itself and the valve becomes operational again. The way the valve works it through a small transfer slot bypassing the ASO (auto shut off) magnet to allow gas to the pilot for lighting purposes. Once enough millivolts are produced to hold tha magnet in place when the button is released the slot acts as the supplier of pilot gas. When the valve is turned to on the transfer slot is back fed to through to main burner channel to the secondary slot to the pilot tube. If ther is restriction in that secondart slot the pilot will drop out. Sometimes tapping will correct it but on very rear ocasions. Turning the valve (box assembly on its side or upside down will help the matter. The only other thing to do would be to open that up but you cant do that without destroying the integrity of the valve.

3. should i replace my water heater?

Go to a hardware store and get a metal hose bib cap

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